5/21/2023 0 Comments Cheapest timing lightIf they're using digital timing lights running no resistor in either the plug or cap will fuck up the reading. I am speaking from a fundamental understanding of electro-magnetism and from personal experience. Put a non resistor plug with a non-resistor boot on a moped and try to measure anything with a digital multimeter anywhere near the moped. Resistor plugs are a must have for points ignitions if you have any electronics around them. Buy a simple point and shoot flashing timing light and a length of timing tape for the diameter of you balancer. > It makes no difference, the cheapest timing light in the world works Purchase an advance timing light, where you dial up an advance and the light will advance or delay the flash accordingly, and you see the marks line up. > With points Ignition you are incorrect, > Resistor plug and cap are only for electronic ignition! JEGS offers a wide selection of timing lights from top manufacturers such as Innova, MSD, Actron, Proform, JEGS, and others. ![]() > Are you making stuff up as you go or what! > Your last post about puch horns was completely wrong and this post is > Electronics get wonky when you're not running a resistor plug/boot I feel like it happened on every bike I use it Maybe a crappy light, maybe something else > Bike has to be running to use a timing light. It’s an easy way to make a lot more power. The Innova 5568 professional timing light includes four advanced function digital readouts utilizing an easy-to-read backlit LCD. If you have a curve on your cdi box, rev the bike and see where your timing gets to when revving up. I just went to AutoZone and bought the cheapest tach they had and it also happened to be a little tiny thing and used a little duct tape to strap it to the top. Run the bike and check with a timing light. Just print out the many available degree wheels online and glue it to a cd or some cardboard, then mark an arbitrary place on the cases which will be your marker point, then mark tdc, 10deg btdc, then 20deg btdc on the flywheel. 18deg has been proven safe with large air cooled heads or wc heads if you run 150psi or less. So I cut the welded strip down a bit and got the timing back to my standard 23 deg at idle, and then retard to 18deg at 9k. ![]() Well shit, I idled at 16deg, then as it retards it retarded down to like 11deg at 9k. Somehow I must have added weld to the trigger strip years ago after a detonation event and haven’t checked timing since. The bike wasn’t ripping as hard as it should so I checked timing and wow. My hobbit has a weird diy hybrid points/cdi system that uses an external trigger. Jesus ain’t setting your timing dummy, it’s you. That’s like believing in some bullshit god, you don’t know if there’s a god, you just lie to yourself and pretend it’s real when your destiny is controlled by chaos and your own personal decisions. DO NOT TRUST MM BEFORE TDC SETTINGS AS GOSPEL. Homemade cheapest timing light for enfield and all bikes and cars. Too small a rechargeable cell most cheap solar lights have the cheapest. If you have adjustable timing or even if you don’t, if you’re trying to get your bike efficiently running, properly checking timing with a timing light is super important. If the timing light is like my Snap-On model from the early 70s, the lights.
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